Summer in October

Today was at least 85 degrees and sunny, a perfect summer beach day in October! As predicted, the waves were small and good. And …

Score at SSS

After almost three weeks out of the water, I can still surf! Today, for the first time, I actually surfed my adopted southern sur…

Nothing going on around here

I'm on a road trip down south, to my adopted home town. There's a beach here but haven't been any waves. And since th…

First fall session

I hate to say it, because I live for summer, but it's begun to feel more like fall already. The air is different, the light i…

The photographic evidence

Today I saw the photos one of the guys took of me trying to surf. I had thought I was having a good day and doing well that day. …

Taking the brakes off

Since that last fun day, much surfing has been obligatory. That is, going out not because the waves are fun or even particularly …

Surprise session

Never listen to Surfline. They said flat, and I planned a flat day, cleaning my apartment. Then I saw people heading to the beach…

Dancing

I will not tell you the name of the gospel song which was playing in my head today. Beautiful as it is, no one's ever heard o…

No popup

The good (three foot) waves continue. I got some rides today and thought I was doing well. I mean, I'm on a board I don't…

Back to the Blue

I'm so glad now that I didn't sell my old board, my 8-6 Blue. Any money I would have made is irrelevant compared to the o…

Smashed!

No, not me, thank god. I didn't get a scratch on me. It's my board. My nearly brand new Robert August hideously expensive…

Rain session

Today was the first time I've ever (intentionally) gone surfing in the rain. I was up early hoping for good waves, which ther…