Dancing
I will not tell you the name of the gospel song which was playing in my head today. Beautiful as it is, no one's ever heard of it; it would mean nothing to you. But it meant everything to me today. It made surfing one foot waves into an art form; into dancing.
At least that's how I felt, what I was trying for. And it made today, a day when my body ached from pretty much a week of nonstop surfing and asked politely to be excused, a full out blast.
Maybe I did some real popups; maybe I didn't. I got lots of waves and lots of rides. And, on some, I felt, I think, I hope I danced.
At least that's how I felt, what I was trying for. And it made today, a day when my body ached from pretty much a week of nonstop surfing and asked politely to be excused, a full out blast.
Maybe I did some real popups; maybe I didn't. I got lots of waves and lots of rides. And, on some, I felt, I think, I hope I danced.
0 Response to "Dancing"
Post a Comment