Surprise session
Never listen to Surfline.
They said flat, and I planned a flat day, cleaning my apartment. Then I saw people heading to the beach, and people in the water. Since I live down the street from the surf shop, everyone who rents a board or stores one there passes by me on their way to the beach.
I looked and saw waves. About four o'clock, I said The apartment's clean enough.
I caught and rode my first wave. And it was mad fun. And I didn't get every wave I went for, but I rode every wave I got. I think I popped up, because my ankle is telling me I didn't scrape it, but I can't be sure.
And people saw me get rides, and I was, quite simply, a surfer. Not somebody who just sits there, or somebody who just wipes out, but somebody who surfs. I got complimented on my rides, and I complimented others. Turns out the old guy I've seen out the last three sessions can actually surf.
And that was just how it was. And it was all fun until I got cold and had to go in.
They said flat, and I planned a flat day, cleaning my apartment. Then I saw people heading to the beach, and people in the water. Since I live down the street from the surf shop, everyone who rents a board or stores one there passes by me on their way to the beach.
I looked and saw waves. About four o'clock, I said The apartment's clean enough.
I caught and rode my first wave. And it was mad fun. And I didn't get every wave I went for, but I rode every wave I got. I think I popped up, because my ankle is telling me I didn't scrape it, but I can't be sure.
And people saw me get rides, and I was, quite simply, a surfer. Not somebody who just sits there, or somebody who just wipes out, but somebody who surfs. I got complimented on my rides, and I complimented others. Turns out the old guy I've seen out the last three sessions can actually surf.
And that was just how it was. And it was all fun until I got cold and had to go in.
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