POOP, no, shit, no, crap
Today was my first time in the water in nearly a month. At first I thought I had completely forgotten how to surf, which would be only natural after such a long hiatus, and thought I was doomed to have a POOP (pathetically out of practice) session. But it only took about fifteen minutes of adjusting to today's waves before I was poop no longer.
After that I got lots of waves and lots of rides all the way to the beach, no problem. I stayed out of the way of the bearlike man (BM) next to me. It felt glorious to be in the ocean again and to swallow saltwater; saltwater, heavens it's tasty (SHIT).
And waiting for waves, I had lots of leisure to consider the landscape all around me, with unsold and unfinished condominiums on nearly every corner. Condos really are pollution (CRAP)!
That's all for today.
After that I got lots of waves and lots of rides all the way to the beach, no problem. I stayed out of the way of the bearlike man (BM) next to me. It felt glorious to be in the ocean again and to swallow saltwater; saltwater, heavens it's tasty (SHIT).
And waiting for waves, I had lots of leisure to consider the landscape all around me, with unsold and unfinished condominiums on nearly every corner. Condos really are pollution (CRAP)!
That's all for today.
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