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The good (three foot) waves continue. I got some rides today and thought I was doing well. I mean, I'm on a board I don't like and haven't been using, and for the first time in my life I'm getting up and riding on waves over two feet.
My surf coach said no. He says I'm still getting up like an old fart, using my knee(s) and sticking my butt out. And then I don't go anywhere, I'm not really riding the wave but just going straight.
I thought my performance was good and I was satisfied with it today. But I guess I'm still not getting it.
That's discouraging. But I had fun and didn't get killed on a very crowded, crazy weekend. There was a surf contest for the young kids, a paddleout for someone I didn't know, and speakers playing good music all day long. What a difference that makes! I actually did two sessions on Sunday, one in the morning (cold and cloudy) and one in the afternoon (hot and sunny). I almost didn't go out in the afternoon, but I'm glad I did; lots of familiar faces, as much socializing as surfing. And I was not the worst surfer in the water, by far.
After that, I threw some burgers and dogs on my new grill, ate dinner on my terrace, and was ready for bed by nine o'clock. What a weekend. What a summer.
My surf coach said no. He says I'm still getting up like an old fart, using my knee(s) and sticking my butt out. And then I don't go anywhere, I'm not really riding the wave but just going straight.
I thought my performance was good and I was satisfied with it today. But I guess I'm still not getting it.
That's discouraging. But I had fun and didn't get killed on a very crowded, crazy weekend. There was a surf contest for the young kids, a paddleout for someone I didn't know, and speakers playing good music all day long. What a difference that makes! I actually did two sessions on Sunday, one in the morning (cold and cloudy) and one in the afternoon (hot and sunny). I almost didn't go out in the afternoon, but I'm glad I did; lots of familiar faces, as much socializing as surfing. And I was not the worst surfer in the water, by far.
After that, I threw some burgers and dogs on my new grill, ate dinner on my terrace, and was ready for bed by nine o'clock. What a weekend. What a summer.
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