Hung up on the Ledge

The last two sessions have been really frustrating. Both days featured closeout waves, and both were just, I have to admit, beyon…

"So I throw my beer in Mick Jagger's face..."

Sorry, I just like that sentence. I think it's the most satisfying sentence I've written on this blog. Though it's no…

Surfing as surfing

Today: sun, perfectly blue skies, friendly faces, north wind, good little waves all day. What I wrote yesterday was bullshit. Sur…

Surfing as prayer

Some days important, life-changing events or decisions are looming ahead of you, and all you can do is wait to see how they turn …

NSSS vs. SSS

Back at home, on a sunny summer weekend, surfing is like playing bumper cars again. It's hard to readjust. Yesterday when the…

"Are you OK, Ma'am?"

And the correct question for today's Jeopardy clue is: What is the correct thing to say when you run over a surfin' grann…

Surfing and aggression

Almost exactly one year ago, on August 20, 2007, I wrote about a lesson surfing has taught me: There is no such thing as being to…

Listless waves, and Barney

Today's session was pretty much the worst in months, but it wasn't me; it really was the waves. There really were none, a…

Where have I been?

I have had a lousy summer cold for three weeks. After the last post, I attempted to go out again the next day. But the waves were…

After the popup

Just a quick note (I'm exhausted, and fought a head cold to go out surfing today, but glad I did) to say I'm getting my p…

A little help

Let us pause for a moment to commemorate my 5th anniversary of surfing (or at least surf-related behavior): July 3rd. It happened…

Not transferable

Yesterday and today I was forced to realize that my hard-won skills are not transferable to waves over three feet. For the first …