Where have I been?
I have had a lousy summer cold for three weeks. After the last post, I attempted to go out again the next day. But the waves were head high and I felt even sicker. I gave myself permission to opt out of the session and be sick.
There've been no waves to speak of, anyway.
Today, with ankle high waves, was my first day back in the water. It was sunny and hot and so there were about twelve desperate people out. Including a friend of mine who appeared to be on crack and so was highly entertaining, spewing bodily fluids everywhere and generally acting like an eight year old retarded child. Yeah you. If you don't like my blog, stop reading it!
I had a great time, catching lots of waves and rides. Of course they only lasted one and a half seconds. It felt so good just to be back in the water.
I proved two things: One, I can still surf. Two (I had on a new suit): any bathing suit top, including one specifically marketed for surfers, can fall down in any conditions, even one foot waves. Why can't someone engineer something better?
There've been no waves to speak of, anyway.
Today, with ankle high waves, was my first day back in the water. It was sunny and hot and so there were about twelve desperate people out. Including a friend of mine who appeared to be on crack and so was highly entertaining, spewing bodily fluids everywhere and generally acting like an eight year old retarded child. Yeah you. If you don't like my blog, stop reading it!
I had a great time, catching lots of waves and rides. Of course they only lasted one and a half seconds. It felt so good just to be back in the water.
I proved two things: One, I can still surf. Two (I had on a new suit): any bathing suit top, including one specifically marketed for surfers, can fall down in any conditions, even one foot waves. Why can't someone engineer something better?
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