Surfing as prayer
Some days important, life-changing events or decisions are looming ahead of you, and all you can do is wait to see how they turn out. You've done all you can to make things come out the way you want, but the truth is that the outcome is not under your control. And if you surf more days than not, you'll be surfing on such a day once in a while.
On these days surfing is like praying. Each paddle, each ride is offered up to whatever god you believe in. You are trying not to think, or to only think only of the matters at hand...
...match the speed of the wave
...didn't get the popup on that one
...took off too late
...is that W.'s girlfriend? looks like her, no, it isn't
...yipes, I'm right over the sticks
...that was a nice drop
...what the hell happened on that wave?
...that guy is really good
...can't wait until the crowds are gone
...there! that was a good ride
but really, there is a huge stone in the pit of your stomach at all times that you can never forget.
You're really praying to god or the universe or whatever you believe in
...please let things work out OK.
Today was like (though not as bad as) the day I went out surfing when my cat was in the hospital dying.
I didn't get the answer I wanted to my prayers that day.
Turns out, I didn't get it today either.
On these days surfing is like praying. Each paddle, each ride is offered up to whatever god you believe in. You are trying not to think, or to only think only of the matters at hand...
...match the speed of the wave
...didn't get the popup on that one
...took off too late
...is that W.'s girlfriend? looks like her, no, it isn't
...yipes, I'm right over the sticks
...that was a nice drop
...what the hell happened on that wave?
...that guy is really good
...can't wait until the crowds are gone
...there! that was a good ride
but really, there is a huge stone in the pit of your stomach at all times that you can never forget.
You're really praying to god or the universe or whatever you believe in
...please let things work out OK.
Today was like (though not as bad as) the day I went out surfing when my cat was in the hospital dying.
I didn't get the answer I wanted to my prayers that day.
Turns out, I didn't get it today either.
0 Response to "Surfing as prayer"
Post a Comment