The annual ski blog, 2008

I just got back from Colorado. Yeah, there was snow. I had my best ski day ever there. And I kept going for six days in a row, al…

Turnaround Day

March has pretty much been a bust, wave wise. I've been looking out for waves, when not otherwise running around. I missed a …

And the winner is...

...to be revealed at the end of this post. Meanwhile, did you ever lose a contact lens while in the water and then find it? I bet…

Skiing = waves

Wow, I can't believe how long it's been since I surfed/posted here. The day after my last post I got sick for the first t…

The Church of Surf

Sunday morning services were well attended today, in the dead of winter, almost as well attended as during the summer. Year-round…

The Ledge

OK. Here goes. I need some help from you surfers. I have tried to ask this question to a few locals, but didn't get through. …

One perfect ride

Sometimes I can just will myself to do it right. Today, in waves that were a good size for me, I wasn't getting anywhere but …

Boring.

My prediction came true. I am on a surf roll again. Today I actually woke up excited because there were going to be waves. They w…

Chill(y) Sunday

And it happened as I decreed; there were good little waves late today. And even though the forecast said Flat, Lordy did the news…

Out of nowhere

Just before dark, it got really perfect. This was totally unexpected. Little waves came out of nowhere around two p.m. I went to …

Ass Kicked by One Foot Waves; Humiliated by Tabloid Photographer

I thought I was through having days like today. All I can say is: Goddammit! goddammit. When if ever am I going to be through? It…

Turning

Now that I'm mostly getting up, there is a whole new challenge: what to do when I'm up. Today I had a couple of perfect r…