Boring.
My prediction came true.
I am on a surf roll again. Today I actually woke up excited because there were going to be waves. They were too big in the morning, so I decided to wait until the afternoon. By that time they weren't so big. Not too big for me.
Well...
It wasn't fun. It wasn't not fun. I wasn't scared. I wasn't cold. I was just....
...yes, halfway though I realized it...
bored.
I don't think I have ever been so bored by a surf session before.
I just wasn't engaging.
The waves were just a bit too difficult for me, I soon realized. By that I mean that they were larger than I've mastered and they were closing out quickly. There was virtually no margin for error on timing. Too soon, and you'd hang up on top. Too late, and you'd go over the falls. I realized early on that I had little to no chance of a ride. And I didn't get one. Today, it was all about trying to get the timing right.
And I tried, gamely, without success, and without much interest.
Well, I did get the timing right quite a few times, the takeoffs were OK; but then I either couldn't get up or fell immediately.
For a reality check, I consulted V., an expert surfer who is also one of the nicest guys around here. He said the same thing: The waves were challenging because they were closing out so quickly. They were difficult to catch. And once you caught one, you had to stand up immediately (not my strong point) or you had no chance. V. went over the falls a few times himself, I saw it, as well as getting rides. I had quite a few wipeouts myself.
And of course many of the better surfers had the time of their lives, or at least the best time in a few months.
I stayed out for two hours, until my last wipeout knocked my contacts out of my eyes. I tried my best, but once I realized conditions wouldn't even allow me to learn anything today, I was just plain...
Bored.
I am on a surf roll again. Today I actually woke up excited because there were going to be waves. They were too big in the morning, so I decided to wait until the afternoon. By that time they weren't so big. Not too big for me.
Well...
It wasn't fun. It wasn't not fun. I wasn't scared. I wasn't cold. I was just....
...yes, halfway though I realized it...
bored.
I don't think I have ever been so bored by a surf session before.
I just wasn't engaging.
The waves were just a bit too difficult for me, I soon realized. By that I mean that they were larger than I've mastered and they were closing out quickly. There was virtually no margin for error on timing. Too soon, and you'd hang up on top. Too late, and you'd go over the falls. I realized early on that I had little to no chance of a ride. And I didn't get one. Today, it was all about trying to get the timing right.
And I tried, gamely, without success, and without much interest.
Well, I did get the timing right quite a few times, the takeoffs were OK; but then I either couldn't get up or fell immediately.
For a reality check, I consulted V., an expert surfer who is also one of the nicest guys around here. He said the same thing: The waves were challenging because they were closing out so quickly. They were difficult to catch. And once you caught one, you had to stand up immediately (not my strong point) or you had no chance. V. went over the falls a few times himself, I saw it, as well as getting rides. I had quite a few wipeouts myself.
And of course many of the better surfers had the time of their lives, or at least the best time in a few months.
I stayed out for two hours, until my last wipeout knocked my contacts out of my eyes. I tried my best, but once I realized conditions wouldn't even allow me to learn anything today, I was just plain...
Bored.
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