One perfect ride
Sometimes I can just will myself to do it right.
Today, in waves that were a good size for me, I wasn't getting anywhere but annoyed by myself. I couldn't/can't understand why I wasn't able to stay up when I was up. Turning? Not even a possibility.
And then, after about an hour and a half of this, I got up perfectly and got a perfect ride.
One perfect ride. Popup and eveything.
Why? Why not before, why not after?
I can't explain it. If I can do it once, why can't I do it thirty times?
Here's the state of my "surfing" now: I can catch waves. I can pop up. I can balance. I can even turn.
But only very rarely can I ever do all these things on the same wave.
Today, in waves that were a good size for me, I wasn't getting anywhere but annoyed by myself. I couldn't/can't understand why I wasn't able to stay up when I was up. Turning? Not even a possibility.
And then, after about an hour and a half of this, I got up perfectly and got a perfect ride.
One perfect ride. Popup and eveything.
Why? Why not before, why not after?
I can't explain it. If I can do it once, why can't I do it thirty times?
Here's the state of my "surfing" now: I can catch waves. I can pop up. I can balance. I can even turn.
But only very rarely can I ever do all these things on the same wave.
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