The Church of Surf Sunday morning services were well attended today, in the dead of winter, almost as well attended as during the summer. Year-round… Sunday, February 3, 2008 Add Comment Edit
The Ledge OK. Here goes. I need some help from you surfers. I have tried to ask this question to a few locals, but didn't get through. … Thursday, January 31, 2008 Add Comment Edit
One perfect ride Sometimes I can just will myself to do it right. Today, in waves that were a good size for me, I wasn't getting anywhere but … Tuesday, January 29, 2008 Add Comment Edit
Boring. My prediction came true. I am on a surf roll again. Today I actually woke up excited because there were going to be waves. They w… Monday, January 28, 2008 Add Comment Edit
Chill(y) Sunday And it happened as I decreed; there were good little waves late today. And even though the forecast said Flat, Lordy did the news… Sunday, January 27, 2008 Add Comment Edit
Out of nowhere Just before dark, it got really perfect. This was totally unexpected. Little waves came out of nowhere around two p.m. I went to … Saturday, January 26, 2008 Add Comment Edit
Ass Kicked by One Foot Waves; Humiliated by Tabloid Photographer I thought I was through having days like today. All I can say is: Goddammit! goddammit. When if ever am I going to be through? It… Thursday, January 24, 2008 Add Comment Edit
Turning Now that I'm mostly getting up, there is a whole new challenge: what to do when I'm up. Today I had a couple of perfect r… Monday, January 14, 2008 Add Comment Edit
Gloves off Imagine this surfing scenario. You are riding an heavy old longboard without a leash at a crowded break. You lose control of your… Sunday, January 13, 2008 Add Comment Edit
Good Saturday Today was a bigger, better day than we've seen in some time, and it was sunny and warm and Saturday, and of course that means… Saturday, January 12, 2008 Add Comment Edit
Run in with the mob Wow, the waves were bigger today---up to two feet! I got my ass up early, only to confront a sight I don't see very often: hi… Thursday, January 10, 2008 Add Comment Edit
New Years Resolution How do I know I'm surfing better? There are impressions on the wax of my board of the pattern on the bottoms of my boots---my… Monday, January 7, 2008 Add Comment Edit