Unfinished Business
After nearly thirty five years of living on or near the Southern Ocean I have now belatedly returned to live on the Australian Pacific Coast. This was my first home, the mystical the place of my youth, where I first earned my spurs as a surfer, but I ultimately left the small coastal town I came from to pursue work and career opportunities.
While I have been fortunate to enjoy half a lifetime of great waves with good friends in many fine places, I always felt I left a lot of unfinished business back in the water where I came from. Favorable circumstances have now allowed me to return to my origins and I am back in the subtropics living within a five minute walk to the nearest break.
From the first moment I stood upright on a board I became completely committed to never leaving the water until they carted me out. At the age of 55 I am more determined than ever to make good on that commitment. So I am traveling full circle and betting the mellow, warm water waves that I remember from my youth, if combined with plenty of stretching and healthy living, will allow me to log a lot more time in the tube for an awful lot longer.
While I have been fortunate to enjoy half a lifetime of great waves with good friends in many fine places, I always felt I left a lot of unfinished business back in the water where I came from. Favorable circumstances have now allowed me to return to my origins and I am back in the subtropics living within a five minute walk to the nearest break.
From the first moment I stood upright on a board I became completely committed to never leaving the water until they carted me out. At the age of 55 I am more determined than ever to make good on that commitment. So I am traveling full circle and betting the mellow, warm water waves that I remember from my youth, if combined with plenty of stretching and healthy living, will allow me to log a lot more time in the tube for an awful lot longer.
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