I'm absolutely knackered.............

..........because I have had three surf sessions over the last two days.

Yesterday, I had my new big and beautiful blue 10' single fin out in perfect peeling rights in the morning and then finished off the day further round the bay on my bodyboard in bigger and faster rights including one wave which would have to count as the longest I have ever had on a bodyboard. By the end of the ride, my right calf was really aching because I was working so hard using my fin to hold into the face that it was somewhat of a relief when it did end, right on the beach among the seaweed!

This morning, feeling a little like I really didn't need another session, I was again on the 10' single fin looking for the peeling rights from the previous day but they were not there unfortunately.

So I paddled a little further around the bay to some close outs, that were breaking into a bit of a hole, so at least I got a little face time and a lot of that much desired wave condition "By myself". The swell appeared to have come a up a little so I headed back to the point and those little right hand peelers were working again and I got three really, really excellent rides before the tide came in and it stopped working again. Just got to be in the right place at the right time!

Incidentally, we had a 6 metre swell over the weekend and knowing it would be too much for me, I took my video camera down and shot the following footage, of the many that were willing to brave it, if you are interested.

Anyway, I don't know about you guys, but I am finding that after that much surfing, my body is just not coping as well as it was when I was a little younger.

Mind you, when I first started surfing 8 and a half years ago, I found the walk up the beach trying, would only last a little while in the water and needed a couple of days get over it before I could go surfing again!

So it is all relative I guess but it definitely looks like it is going to be an increasingly obvious issue.

I think one of the key contributors is hydration and I keep forgetting to take on some water before I go surfing rather than relying on doing so after a surf and having trouble actually getting enough fluid in to myself.

I also think that a loss of flexibility is also problematic. I find I have to give my calves a good stretch in the morning before I actually stand up otherwise I am hobbling around like a much older man for a few minutes. After spending sometime over at Pranaglider's blog, I have also tentatively restarted a yoga practise again after many years of "I must get around to it soon!"

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