Perfect. Perfect. Perfect.
Today was about as good as a session gets.
The sun was out. The wind was calm and it was warm. No one needed a hood.
Miracle of miracles, no wind in the afternoon. I got out late, after having an unusually good day so far. I timed it right.
The waves were little.
Crowd was small and friendly.
I got lots of rides. People hooted. Even though it wasn't challenging, I felt like I was actually learning some skills. Like, I could feel the rails grabbing the waves. I could feel myself controlling them. I knew where they were. Usually I don't think about such things. I thought, inside rail, outside rail, and knew what I was doing with them.
I was able to get up low and stay low, something that's usually difficult for me, but it makes a big difference when waves are small.
I got that feeling I've talked about before, when time seems to be suspended, at least for a couple of seconds. When that happens me and the wave are perfectly in synch.
I was actually smiling at strangers and they were smiling back. No gray faces today, only sunny ones.
To finish it off, there was a gorgeous sunset. It was my first sunset session in many many months. There is nothing so good as watching the sun set from the water, unless it's watching it after a spectacular session. I stayed out as long as I could still see.
Perfect day, perfect surf, perfect sunset, a man waiting at home to make me dinner, perfect night. The kind of day that gives you the strength to go on.
Actually, there's no secret to what causes such a good surf session. And I'm sure most of you know this. It's not the sun or the waves or the wind or the tide (not only). It's whether you had sex before your session. There is a 100% correlation between sex and good surfing. I have never known an exception. But that's no secret, right, people?
The sun was out. The wind was calm and it was warm. No one needed a hood.
Miracle of miracles, no wind in the afternoon. I got out late, after having an unusually good day so far. I timed it right.
The waves were little.
Crowd was small and friendly.
I got lots of rides. People hooted. Even though it wasn't challenging, I felt like I was actually learning some skills. Like, I could feel the rails grabbing the waves. I could feel myself controlling them. I knew where they were. Usually I don't think about such things. I thought, inside rail, outside rail, and knew what I was doing with them.
I was able to get up low and stay low, something that's usually difficult for me, but it makes a big difference when waves are small.
I got that feeling I've talked about before, when time seems to be suspended, at least for a couple of seconds. When that happens me and the wave are perfectly in synch.
I was actually smiling at strangers and they were smiling back. No gray faces today, only sunny ones.
To finish it off, there was a gorgeous sunset. It was my first sunset session in many many months. There is nothing so good as watching the sun set from the water, unless it's watching it after a spectacular session. I stayed out as long as I could still see.
Perfect day, perfect surf, perfect sunset, a man waiting at home to make me dinner, perfect night. The kind of day that gives you the strength to go on.
Actually, there's no secret to what causes such a good surf session. And I'm sure most of you know this. It's not the sun or the waves or the wind or the tide (not only). It's whether you had sex before your session. There is a 100% correlation between sex and good surfing. I have never known an exception. But that's no secret, right, people?
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