I did it this time
Today was another bigger wave day, five feet, and I made it my goal not to hang back but to take off later.
I did it. And it wasn't so bad. At first I got worked. Then I got up to my feet. Then I got a ride.
It wasn't perfect, but at least I learned something. As I thought, the only cure for being scared and taking off too early is (being scared and) taking off later and taking the consequences.
I did it. And it wasn't so bad. At first I got worked. Then I got up to my feet. Then I got a ride.
It wasn't perfect, but at least I learned something. As I thought, the only cure for being scared and taking off too early is (being scared and) taking off later and taking the consequences.
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