Applause!
This morning, wonderful things happened:
I went surfing the first time this year without a wetsuit, woo-hoo!
Perhaps as a result of shedding the suit, I surfed great.
I caught waves perfectly. One was so perfect, and lasted so long, and was so well executed, that one of the locals (a friend, all around good guy, and experienced surfer) hooted for me as I exited the wave. He's seen and heard my struggles to learn for years.
"You're really getting good," he said.
"Nice drops."
Two words I thought I'd never hear applied to me!
I went surfing the first time this year without a wetsuit, woo-hoo!
Perhaps as a result of shedding the suit, I surfed great.
I caught waves perfectly. One was so perfect, and lasted so long, and was so well executed, that one of the locals (a friend, all around good guy, and experienced surfer) hooted for me as I exited the wave. He's seen and heard my struggles to learn for years.
"You're really getting good," he said.
"Nice drops."
Two words I thought I'd never hear applied to me!
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