A good day

I had to sit out the head-high+ waves we've had (reportedly---I wasn't around) this past weekend, but today was manageabl…

Best wave ever

My first day back in New York, and I had no plans to surf. Surfline called it flat. (Regular readers should know by now that when…

Grandma and Grandpa go surfing

So I’m down at my sweet Secret Southern Spot (SSS) just getting a cop of coffee at MacDonald’s before heading into the ocean on a…

Smiles all around

And that's just how it was today. This holiday Monday was pretty crowded with people hungry for waves, especially since the …

And the #1 reason to surf when you "can't"...

Is because you'll get out of practice. I felt it today. I had to go out, I couldn't stand it anymore. Though the waves we…

The risks and benefits of not surfing when there are good waves

No, I haven't been surfing. I have a final final FINAL (no, really) deadline to meet on my book and I pride myself on never m…

I forgot about this.

The past week or so has been so full of stress (both the good and the bad kind) and I haven't had a ride in so long. When tha…

I'd Rather Be Indexing

And then there are the days, even worse than the closeout days, when I suck for absolutely no reason I can determine. These days …

Hung up on the Ledge

The last two sessions have been really frustrating. Both days featured closeout waves, and both were just, I have to admit, beyon…

"So I throw my beer in Mick Jagger's face..."

Sorry, I just like that sentence. I think it's the most satisfying sentence I've written on this blog. Though it's no…

Surfing as surfing

Today: sun, perfectly blue skies, friendly faces, north wind, good little waves all day. What I wrote yesterday was bullshit. Sur…

Surfing as prayer

Some days important, life-changing events or decisions are looming ahead of you, and all you can do is wait to see how they turn …