Surfing and aggression

Almost exactly one year ago, on August 20, 2007, I wrote about a lesson surfing has taught me: There is no such thing as being to…

Listless waves, and Barney

Today's session was pretty much the worst in months, but it wasn't me; it really was the waves. There really were none, a…

Where have I been?

I have had a lousy summer cold for three weeks. After the last post, I attempted to go out again the next day. But the waves were…

After the popup

Just a quick note (I'm exhausted, and fought a head cold to go out surfing today, but glad I did) to say I'm getting my p…

A little help

Let us pause for a moment to commemorate my 5th anniversary of surfing (or at least surf-related behavior): July 3rd. It happened…

Not transferable

Yesterday and today I was forced to realize that my hard-won skills are not transferable to waves over three feet. For the first …

Surfing and music

I know what you're thinking. What's with the long silence? Did I regress again and become too discouraged to post? First,…

What it's all been for

What it's all been for, five years of struggle: this day. One perfect day when it all comes together: Catching waves; popping…

Flat. Not.

I wasn't even going to check the waves today because Surfline called it flat, except that so many days that Surfline called f…

First weekend of summer

The craziness has begun; it's the first weekend here that's really felt like summer. And I mean summer: 95 degrees and su…

Ditto

Another day like yesterday.

On a roll

The heavens are aligned in my favor. For the past few days, I can do no wrong---everything is golden. Sometimes, not too often, t…