Testosterone sea

Yesterday the waves were head high. It was the kind of day good surfers live for. If they weren't in the water, they were at …

Surf critic

(Note: this is the one and only post where events did not actually happen on the date of the post. I've forgotten what day th…

Snaking

Today I headed for the same spot where I was alone for a while last time. But I wasn't alone for too long. Soon a guy came ou…

Zen and the art of surfing

Forgive me for going a bit spacey and zen on you this post. It's been an unusually good day. I bought a columbine. I turned i…

Surf haiku

Over by the rocks Wave hogs get ride after ride Leaving us no scraps. I too have a dream One day we will surf in peace Sharing al…

One good ride

Here is why you should always go in after you get one good ride: Because you will spend the next 20 minutes trying to get out aga…

Four foot day

I've been going out in bigger waves lately, I guess. I really don't do any better or worse on them, so what the hell. Tod…

Monday blues

I hadn't planned on surfing today, but I checked the waves and they weren't bad, plus no one was out on this sunny Monday…

Surf lessons from myself

Today we were back to the small, crappy waves we're so used to around here. It wasn't as crowded out, not bad for a Satur…

The myth of learning to surf (or, Where da popup go?)

Good waves were forecast for today. A miracle: not the waves, but that I managed to get up around 6:15. Folks, I didn't even …

A chick adrift

It's not very often I would use the word "chick" to describe myself, but I think being the only woman out in a line…

Dropping in on the drop-in king

A rite of passage here, an obligation of everyone who calls themselves a surfer sooner or later: dropping in on C. Rules of etiqu…