A chick adrift
It's not very often I would use the word "chick" to describe myself, but I think being the only woman out in a lineup of guys is a situation where I would. At least that seemed to be the case today as far as I could see. Later I found out there was one woman out earlier, before I got there.
I was making my takeoffs today; that was the good part, especially since the waves were about four feet. But the popups weren't really happening. I only got my feet on the board about three times, and then fell. I only had one instance of what might charitably be called a ride.
And there was a ferocious drift. It threatened to send me and my board over the jagged wooden spikes that caused $250 of damage to my Robert August last summer. We came perilously close today.
I have wondered a lot about why my legs get so tired after "surfing," since I never use them. I mean, as far as I know I've used my leg muscles once or twice in nearly five years. I'm not even sure I have leg muscles. Today I realized how much I use them in getting out, especially on a day like today. Staying upright while walking out on a big and/or drifty day is a workout for the legs. On our beach you're usually walking your board out at least half the way. So that's why. I wonder how my legs would feel if I actually used them to surf. Today I was so tired I went to bed around 9:00.
I was making my takeoffs today; that was the good part, especially since the waves were about four feet. But the popups weren't really happening. I only got my feet on the board about three times, and then fell. I only had one instance of what might charitably be called a ride.
And there was a ferocious drift. It threatened to send me and my board over the jagged wooden spikes that caused $250 of damage to my Robert August last summer. We came perilously close today.
I have wondered a lot about why my legs get so tired after "surfing," since I never use them. I mean, as far as I know I've used my leg muscles once or twice in nearly five years. I'm not even sure I have leg muscles. Today I realized how much I use them in getting out, especially on a day like today. Staying upright while walking out on a big and/or drifty day is a workout for the legs. On our beach you're usually walking your board out at least half the way. So that's why. I wonder how my legs would feel if I actually used them to surf. Today I was so tired I went to bed around 9:00.
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