Out of nowhere

Just before dark, it got really perfect. This was totally unexpected. Little waves came out of nowhere around two p.m. I went to …

Ass Kicked by One Foot Waves; Humiliated by Tabloid Photographer

I thought I was through having days like today. All I can say is: Goddammit! goddammit. When if ever am I going to be through? It…

Turning

Now that I'm mostly getting up, there is a whole new challenge: what to do when I'm up. Today I had a couple of perfect r…

Gloves off

Imagine this surfing scenario. You are riding an heavy old longboard without a leash at a crowded break. You lose control of your…

Good Saturday

Today was a bigger, better day than we've seen in some time, and it was sunny and warm and Saturday, and of course that means…

Run in with the mob

Wow, the waves were bigger today---up to two feet! I got my ass up early, only to confront a sight I don't see very often: hi…

New Years Resolution

How do I know I'm surfing better? There are impressions on the wax of my board of the pattern on the bottoms of my boots---my…

Surf marathon

Today was my sixth day of surfing in a row! For a year that was notably lacking in waves, that is a record. And I am doing so muc…

Real redemption

Against all odds, it happened today. I was able to get some rides and actually have fun. I made most of the waves I went for (tho…

Good waves are bad news

By all accounts, today was as good as it gets at our break. How discouraging for me, to have good waves! The better the waves, th…

Redemption session (sort of)

I had to have some redemption today, since it's been over a month since I did anything resembling surfing. And I did get some…

Struggling

Looked out the window. Saw waves. No brainwork was necessary: go surfing. There should have been brainwork. The guy I saw out the…