Surf marathon
Today was my sixth day of surfing in a row! For a year that was notably lacking in waves, that is a record. And I am doing so much better now. In fact, yesterday's morning session with small, clean waves was one of the best of the year. Looking back, though, I see there are actually a lot of candidates for the best surf day of 2007 award.
Yesterday was beautiful, I enjoyed seeing some of the people in the water, and even better, got some long rides right in front of them. I even got cheered by a woman I've seen a few times but don't know.
I am also virtually certain I made history by being the first person to surf and attend a performance of The Nutcracker by the New York City Ballet on the same day. That's the wonder of living at a surf break in an urban area. Anyone else who's surfed and seen that classic Christmas ballet on the same day, please send me a message.
Today the wind was totally in the wrong direction, and yet I didn't want to end my marathon, so went out anyway. I was able to get up and riding even in the sideshore crap. And I struck up a conversation with another woman from yesterday. I saw L. in the water, who I haven't seen since the end of summer. I said hi to him, but he was acting like a jerk. I almost told him that I had just been thinking about him, which was true--but only because I had just made up my traditional year-end list of the Top Ten Assholes of 2007 and he made the list at about number seven. (I make lots of year-end lists: books, movies, music, etc.)
If I had to rank surf days of 2007 yesterday would be near the top. I didn't count, but I probably got the most rides. I'm telling you, people, since I figured out the paddling thing it's a whole new game.
And the award for the best surf advice of the year goes to: Surfsister, who told me she suspected paddling error months ago. Thanks, sis! I had two planned trips to California that got cancelled this year. Maybe in 2o08 I will get there again.
Happy New Year everyone!
Yesterday was beautiful, I enjoyed seeing some of the people in the water, and even better, got some long rides right in front of them. I even got cheered by a woman I've seen a few times but don't know.
I am also virtually certain I made history by being the first person to surf and attend a performance of The Nutcracker by the New York City Ballet on the same day. That's the wonder of living at a surf break in an urban area. Anyone else who's surfed and seen that classic Christmas ballet on the same day, please send me a message.
Today the wind was totally in the wrong direction, and yet I didn't want to end my marathon, so went out anyway. I was able to get up and riding even in the sideshore crap. And I struck up a conversation with another woman from yesterday. I saw L. in the water, who I haven't seen since the end of summer. I said hi to him, but he was acting like a jerk. I almost told him that I had just been thinking about him, which was true--but only because I had just made up my traditional year-end list of the Top Ten Assholes of 2007 and he made the list at about number seven. (I make lots of year-end lists: books, movies, music, etc.)
If I had to rank surf days of 2007 yesterday would be near the top. I didn't count, but I probably got the most rides. I'm telling you, people, since I figured out the paddling thing it's a whole new game.
And the award for the best surf advice of the year goes to: Surfsister, who told me she suspected paddling error months ago. Thanks, sis! I had two planned trips to California that got cancelled this year. Maybe in 2o08 I will get there again.
Happy New Year everyone!
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