Thanksgiving swell

Thanksgiving and the day before brought bigger waves than we've seen in a long long time. Both days some, not all, waves were…

Sweet

Here's what I did today: Look out the window, see surfers. Look at the leaves on my tree and see the wind is light offshore. …

Please, may I have a pass?

On the list of things I love about surfing, close to #1: it's an honorable way for adults to give themselves a pass. A pass i…

Lovelock's death revisited, and clarified

It says something of the flawed sports psyche of New Zealand ers that any time the name Jack Lovelock is mentioned, invariably th…

No longer a Jersey virgin

This weekend, I lost my New Jersey virginity. I've been to my neighboring state before. Well, through the state. Well, to the…

There will be days like this...

I've had a very good couple of days and so was ready for a third. Yesterday I got compliments and some good feedback on my s…

Galatas 1941: Courage in Vain

It started out as a personal mission to understand what happened at the Cretan town of Galatas on the evening of May 25, 1941. In…

Dreads to grins

Waves always come when you're not expecting them. The good thing is that one look out my window first thing in the morning al…

"Can't You Get Along With Anyone?"

I've just discovered this new book, written by surfer Allan Weisbecker, and cannot stop reading it. Yeah, that's the name…

"Surfing"

My first potential surf day back home, and the waves were nice in the morning: small, but good and lots of people out. The first …

Surfing without attitude

Today I surfed for the first time at a not at all secret break, 1st Street in Virginia Beach. I made the right call: for the weat…

Summer in October

Today was at least 85 degrees and sunny, a perfect summer beach day in October! As predicted, the waves were small and good. And …