Sweet
Here's what I did today: Look out the window, see surfers. Look at the leaves on my tree and see the wind is light offshore. Walk to the beach, see them surfing on one foot waves. Breakfast, heart-to-heart talk with a colleague about issues with my editor.
Work for about an hour, waiting for the tide to pass high. Suit up and get out in the water. Inexplicably, seven more people come out in short order. All of them avoid me like cooties. At last a couple, I suspect, are high ranking members of the local surf mafia. I can tell by their boards and how they paddle. I don't care. As in really don't care, not pretend I don't care. I get rides. I try to work on turning. It isn't working yet, because I still find myself going straight. But I'm thinking about what I need to do and I will get it. In between waves, I'm working in my head on my book.
Two hours of this grey sunless day nearly pass before I'm cold and have to get out. It doesn't seem that long.
Too cold to surf any more, I get out, head home and 60 seconds later I'm warming up with a scotch and a hot shower.
I have some homemade eggplant parmagiana, watch The Sopranos, and get a few more hours work done.
There are waves forecast for tomorrow. Perhaps I will get up and do it all over again.
I feel blessed. Life at the beach is sweet.
Work for about an hour, waiting for the tide to pass high. Suit up and get out in the water. Inexplicably, seven more people come out in short order. All of them avoid me like cooties. At last a couple, I suspect, are high ranking members of the local surf mafia. I can tell by their boards and how they paddle. I don't care. As in really don't care, not pretend I don't care. I get rides. I try to work on turning. It isn't working yet, because I still find myself going straight. But I'm thinking about what I need to do and I will get it. In between waves, I'm working in my head on my book.
Two hours of this grey sunless day nearly pass before I'm cold and have to get out. It doesn't seem that long.
Too cold to surf any more, I get out, head home and 60 seconds later I'm warming up with a scotch and a hot shower.
I have some homemade eggplant parmagiana, watch The Sopranos, and get a few more hours work done.
There are waves forecast for tomorrow. Perhaps I will get up and do it all over again.
I feel blessed. Life at the beach is sweet.
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