eight pertinent points to ponder for the older surfer

I found this post from a senior surfer turning 68 in a couple of weeks, and here’s what he's come to accept as he ages: (the link is at the end of the post)

1. I need more volume than ever. As far as wave-catching goes at a crowded, competitive point-break, volume is the great equalizer. At a certain point, EPS/Epoxy becomes the core/shell of choice, despite its extra cost.

2. I need more nose rocker than ever. Despite my daily dose of push-ups, sit-ups and stretching, I get to my feet slower than at any other time in my life. Those quick-twitch muscles have gone to the same place as my short-term memory. A little extra nose-rocker buys me the added time I need.

3. Sometimes, one good wave is enough. Especially on a big, heavy day…nothing wrong with one-and-done.

4. Tail-V, especially on LBs, is the path to “performance”. Turning ability is the cornerstone of performance by anyone’s standard. Having a shape that turns responsively allows the rider to do more than just trim.

5. Sometimes just trimming is all I want to do.

6. I must focus on my current abilities and disabilities, and shape to that. Doesn’t matter what I use to ride, not 30 yrs ago, not 10yrs ago, not even last year.

7. Doesn’t matter how old or how young you are, how well or how poorly you surf, how good your equipment or how bad your equipment is, somebody is probably going to drop in on you. Get over it….

8. Some days, its better to just go fishing. Surfing on small days, weekends, holidays, DOH+ days carry a much higher probability for frustration and disappointment. Don’t need it, don’t want it.

- See more at: http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/old-man-and-sea?page=1#sthash.7MXtGRQ4.dpuf