more Swaylocks wisdom for the aging surfers...
It's all genetics. Genetics loads the gun, diet pulls the trigger... All your buds and associates having coronaries, becoming diabetic, even the old arthritis... High intake of sugar and fat is mostly what does the trick, and of course all the chemical flavoring agents, preservatives, conditioners, etc. I love the Michael Pollen quote, "Eat (real) food, mostly plants, not too much." That about covers the basics. If it required a factory or worse, a chem lab, to produce, it ain't food. - Dr. Strange
Flatwater stand up paddleboarding 5 miles a day, five times a week...Core, balance, endurance, and you can drink a beer while doing it...And while my wife doesn't surf she does paddle, and that counts for a lot... - Paul Jensen
It's all mental......lose your Mojo and you are in for a long uphill battle. I'm not Fat but I'm no fitness dude....Life beats you down with money issues and health issues and whatever else....want to surf? go surf ! ...yes...go surf! GO SURF ! I've had several real life beat downs over the past few years...Get your mind in order..it's not EZ...and then go surf...no amount of anything can replace a good surf....I got my Mojo back this year...but it took alot of hard work...and there's nothing wrong with a 30-45 min session in crappy waves.....that's what get's you ready for the good stuff. I surfed a longboard for 2 hours today....waist high....my friend did a drive by and left me a voice mail that the waves sucked today..................No.............the waves were great today! - Stingray
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