A few notes from the older Swaylocks guys...



Just made 63 last Sunday. The Friday before that my surgeon cleared me for surfing. Been out of the water for over a year with back issues. Spent this summer with surgery, recovery, for both back and prostate (get it checked buddy) and made it back to friendly waters the day before yesterday. Caught a few small ones at RAT w/some buds. That first good right felt just as good as the one I caught 50 years ago at the old Horseshoe Pier in Redondo. Maybe better. Of course now my ribs hurt, my thighs hurt, the tops of my knees hurt. But it's a good hurt.


Ride on,
Tom
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I didn't have hardly any issues up until I was 55, then started having problems with my back. I guess after working some 30+ years in a power plant finally took its toll. It's more of a muscular issue, basically really tight hamstrings and some arthritis in my hips, making riding my shorter fishes and funboards difficult.

I've resorted to riding my shorter longboards, an 8'0" and 8'6" and have set a goal to be able to ride them again. One thing that I've been having difficulty with are pigdogs, which are almost essential when going backside, but hopefully working with a chiroprator and a physical therapist will help me get back in better condition.

I do have a lot more compassion to others when they share their ailments now that I've had a taste of having health issues.

- foamdust
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I made 53 at the end of June. My knees and the rest of my landing gear are not what they used to be. I smoked for 36 years (a month cigarette free as of 09/01) and so my paddling ability is less than average for someone my age.

I did get some good waves as TS Debbi came through early this summer. Enjoyed the day with the missus and a couple of +50 guys I've met off and on for the past 15 or so years. All in all this summer has been a disappointment for my surfing. However, with age comes patience and the long view (hopefully).

This weekend I went with family to meet more family in the St. Augustine area. There I had the opportunity to watch my 10 y.o. niece on her sponge in tiny dribblers and am proud to say that her wave selection and ablity to work those little sections to a maximum length ride was impressive as compared to others of her age on that day.

But perhaps even more fulfilling was sitting with her 14 y.o. sister who is a 10 year survivor of an agressive brain cancer and building sand castles and playing in the sloughs. She is now able to walk with the aid of crutches and her speech has come back after much hard work (after having her motor and language skills clock set back to infancy at the age of 4).

So all told; the waves could have been much better, but I'm now at the age were I know there will be other days where the waves will suit me and am able to enjoy the periphrals when things aren't going as I'd hoped.

Cheers to all, Chris


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