More adventures in South Africa
Molweni! ('Good day!' in the Xhosa language)
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| happy to be out hiking in the bush |
Mary and I started out our time here with a World Cup mission based out of Pietermaritzburg. This city is a bit of a mountain bike mecca or for sure the place to head for any equipment and bike shop needs that you might have while riding in the area. Our time surrounding the race was spent as it would be in any other country, dedicated to the race and in typical fashion we got our pre ride on, dialed in the lines, worked out race day logistics and rested up plenty for the big event. Unfortunately this was coupled with some exotic bug that we both managed to pick up along our travels here, no doubt something to do with the two consecutive overnight flights aboard the germ tube.
We pulled all the stops in trying to get healthy for what was our first high priority race of the season and both managed to stabilize enough (or so our positive thinking allowed us to believe) to toe to the line, though without the type of form that is necessary to make much of a dent in the robust world cup field. There is really nothing much you can do when arriving to a big race under the weather except ignore every possible issue and go like hell. This less than perfect start to the world cup season resulted in a 23rd and 83rd placement respectively and re confirmed the realization that this is indeed a tough sport at nothing less than the highest level. Mary and I let this one go without reading too much into the seasonal form, mostly it left a feeling of looking forward to the next weekend's races and the long season ahead.
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| toughing it out at the world cup opener PMB |
After competing in the World Cup Mary and I had the opportunity to stay on an organic/biodynamic farm in the town of Howick for a few days while we trained and explored the local trails. Big thanks to the Dove House Organic Farm, and our hosts, the Duncan Family, for the refresher on the importance of growing and eating organic and biodynamic foods. Without a doubt organic farming is one of the most important conscious choices that we can make for the health of our bodies and for the planet. Having spent a few days with the Duncans was the reminder we needed that It is important to do as much as we can as individuals and consumers to encourage organic practices, This means buying organic whenever possible! Farmers who are practicing this form of farming are doing us all a service that is deserving of our support!
Howick is a small town in the the KwaZulu Natal region of SA that is surrounded by sparsely populated hills and valleys dominated by farms and forest service land. On the western edge the region the fantastic Drakensburg mountains dominate the landscape and spawn rivers that travel hundreds of kilometers to the sea. Throughout the region abundant mountain bike specific trails are found with in the extensive tracts of forest service land that tolerate the existence of their narrow bermed and well signed perfection. One downside is that the forest service is hardly shy about clear cutting the areas without regard for the impact it obviously has on the flow of the trails and the hard working cycling community. More sustainable trails are found on the tracts of private land where farmers seem keen to out do one another on vying for the title of the best single in the neighborhood - good news for local as well as visiting bikers. We visited the KZN area as recently as 2009 and the changes in the quality and volume of single track we have seen is direct evidence of a healthy MTB community that is not afraid to get involved with trail advocacy as well as get out with the shovel and rake to make a reality out of what otherwise would be just dreams.
Mary and I enjoyed a few days to unwind and explore the rural beauty in this area where game parks packed with exotic species are just an electrified fence away from many neighborhoods and huge vistas allow unobstructed views of the radical thunder and lightening storms that roll through almost daily. I even had the chance to brush up on my moto skills trying to keep up with the the Duncan's oldest son Keira, who at the age of 10 was more than capable of showing me a thing or two about how to rip his neighborhood trails - a humbling and fantastic experience I will not soon forget. Mary and I also enjoyed the chance to going riding with 3 generations of the Duncan family ranging from 10 to 78 who perfectly exemplify the outgoing and sporty spirit that seems a birthright of most South Africans.
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| rest stop at Karkloof falls Howick SA |
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| Mike gets some riding tips from the locals |
Mary and I loaded up on Dove House Organic produce and made the move west on a full days drive across the wide open vistas of the Transkei region. We crossed through townships and villages along the way mostly composed of simple cement homes that spread out over wide tracts of land. Red clay hills covered with dry grasses and scrub brush reminding us at times of the deserts of the american south west, though here endless rivers sliced through the dry terrain forming wide valleys with steep gradients that often asked the limit from our weak little rental car. Though beautiful we found the the Transkei HWY a journey that should be taken on with caution due to a high level of road surface decay and alarming disregard for motor vehicle laws and public safety.
Mary and I arrived after this full day drive into East London, nothing short of a haven of coastal sweetness after this somewhat arduous journey. Here we met up with Chris and Ilse Fick (who we had previously met on a far off cycling adventure in south america). The East London locals had promptly invited us to their home after we re connected at the world cup in PMB. These guys had no real reason to reach out except they exemplify South African hospitality and generosity and saw that Mary and I were blowing in the wind with a couple of weeks in the country still on our hands.
Dr Chris and his charming wife Ilse hosted Mary and I for half a week of luxury, riding local trails, kayaking the lagoon near their house, surfing out their back door, eating and living the good life in general as they took us under their arm to make sure we enjoyed our time at their home in East London to the fullest. Mary and I were so happy to have some like minded friends to guide us as well as be able to stay in this beautiful beach front town.
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| Mary Kayaking and birdwatching in east london SA |
It seems that working full time as a general practitioner, raising a family and being involved in a host of other adventures was not challenging enough for Dr Chris as he has currently upped the ante and taken his passion for cycling to the next level by designing and hosting his own stage race known as "The Lord of the Chainrings". This race is a 3 day affair that will take place for the second time this November in the Hogsback Mountains. For good reason is an event that is now on the radar for Mary and I to return here to compete in sometime in the near future!
The village of Hogsback is one of those little places on the map that turns out to be something larger than life when you visit in person. The skyline is dominated by visually stunning mountains that tear out of the surrounding prairie jagged and unchallenged to some 2000 meters. These peaks draw in the rains and create a micro climate that feeds a thick belt of indigenous forests, cascading waterfalls, that creates a perfect stage for amazing hiking trails, tremendous low alpine off road riding and an enthusiastic crowd of locals determined to make this place the next great cycling destination in South Africa.
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| M n M enjoying the riding and scenery of the Hogsback mountians. |
Mary and I spent two nights at "Away with the Fairies" backpackers/camping hostel when we really only had time for one as this place was far too rad to take in and limit to one day. Away with the Fairies backpackers is the place to stay for the adventure minded visitor! offering an array of low key comfortable accommodation to meet every budget, a kitchen where nightly meals are 5 star healthy treat and a unique bar/ lounge that time and again encourages you to stay up way past bedtime. The staff here are capable of showing any sort of visitor a good time weather you want to get deep into the great outdoors on foot/ mountain bike or just chill out closer to camp and enjoy the unique town and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Mary and I found ourselves immediately adjusting our schedule to spend as much time in the Hogsback area as possible as it is amongst the most breathtaking and unspoiled areas of South Africa we have so far had the chance to see.
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| The Hogsback mountains |
Unfortunately you can't spend much time in South Africa without picking up on some pretty messed up vibes as well, our first steps outside the Johannesburg airport were enough to see that life here is not a happy existence for everyone. It would be an understatement to say a lot of bad things have gone down here in the very recent past and because of this, along with a host of other issues that I as a visitor am not qualified to comment on, make it obvious that the country is still suffering greatly. The general opinion is that your personal safety depends on where you are and what time you are there, and that is a pretty scary way to live in the day to day. Mary and I have never spent so much time riding and training together as we have been well advised it would be plain unsafe to go out otherwise. No doubt things are improving in many ways and eventually the diverse populations of people of South Africa will work out a way that can improve life for all as it seems few are truly happy with the current state of affairs.
With our typical travel preferences Mary and I have pretty much stuck to the quiet off the beaten path type of places where we have seen little in the way of negative issues and where South Africa truly shines. It is clear that South Africans in general have a high level of respect for athletes and athletic pursuits no matter the sport of discipline. A major contributor to this being that many of the people here practice sports themselves or otherwise greatly value spending time outdoors in their beautiful country.
Friendly folks seem easy to come by and have been a tremendous help along our journey here, they have steered us towards an experience here that transcends anything that could have been planned or expected as visitors here on our own. People here seem to have a moment to say hello and from there are likely to offer unsolicited advice to help make sure things go smoothly for you regardless of complete stranger status. For mountain bikers and outdoors people the lure of adventure is here in force and to fully enjoy your visit as is the case most anywhere wherever you travel it is critical to rely on friends and friendly advice to help you figure out the best ways to enjoy your time.
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| Post 80 km ride to Haga Haga. Time for the braai!! |
Special Thanks to all the people we have met along our travels in South Africa - Your spirit is what makes this country so special.
Mike and Mary
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| living out of the car with a Smile! |
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