the one that got away

Over the recent Easter and post Easter swell on the Gold Coast in Oz, I spent a bit of time (along with many others!) attempting to get a few fun waves on the hollow sand banks around Rainbow Bay and Greenmount Point. On one occasion a solid cleanup set of about five waves pushed the crowd well into the inshore - but as I was sitting a little outside I was lucky enough to scratch over the last feathering crest and avoided being pushed inside.

I looked around and found myself completely alone at the takeoff, and better still a perfect peak was lifting up lifted up about 15 metres directly ahead of me. As I quickly turned and began to paddle into what appeared to be a fortuitous and benevolent gift from Huey, out of the corner of my eye I saw a movement off to the inside shoulder.

Suddenly my attention was riveted onto the immaculate vision - a perfect angel of a young woman paddling a white mini mal, her long blond hair still perfectly dry, shining in the sun, her bright yellow bikini standing out on her perfectly tanned, perfectly proportioned body. I could only watched in awe as she gave me a small angelic smile of acknowledgement, and effortlessly stroked into the peak on my inside, rising to her feet and pulling into a fun, hollow, head high, barrel that reeled off way down the line almost out of sight.

She had just quickly paddled out of nowhere! Once I recovered my senses, I concluded that Huey had obviously sent an Angel to punish me for past multiple sins of dropping in, snaking and many other associated felonies, and also maybe to teach me to take absolutely nothing for granted. The the score remains Angels one, Sinful Old Water Rat zero.

(photo courtesy of "Dok")

Share this post