3 for 4
Yesterday I tried to surf, I really did; but when I woke up early, there was little out there. Went back to bed, and by the time I woke up it had started snowing and snowed all day.
I confess I was just too comfortable watching the snowfall from my easy chair, being warm.
And I didn't think there was much of a wave. It was hard to tell without going outside. But late in the afternoon, I saw the surf couple down the street heading out with their boards, so I knew something was up.
Turns out Surfline had put out a late late afternoon good surf update, which few people saw...but those who did surfed if they could.
I hope they had fun. I was just enjoying the luxury of staying in on a snow day too much.
But today, there was no question about waves. Well, the question early was whether they were too big for me. Probably; but by noon they were a little smaller.
They were still a little above my comfort level. As usual when that happens, I hung back too far, anticipating one of the big sets hitting me if I didn't; but the result was I kept just missing waves. And there were long lulls between sets which made getting out easier but also meant I got cold much quicker than I would've if I'd had more sets to paddle for. After hanging up on top of a couple of waves I finally did what I thought I couldn't do: took off later than I felt comfortable with on a bigger wave than usual. I made it. So late wasn't late at all, I just thought it would be.
Having learned that lesson, I was ready to go in before I froze to death. I felt a little like a wimp for getting out after only an hour, but the guy who was going in when I did was going out at the same time, so we were both wimps.
I coulda stayed out until my fingers hurt more...nah.
I confess I was just too comfortable watching the snowfall from my easy chair, being warm.
And I didn't think there was much of a wave. It was hard to tell without going outside. But late in the afternoon, I saw the surf couple down the street heading out with their boards, so I knew something was up.
Turns out Surfline had put out a late late afternoon good surf update, which few people saw...but those who did surfed if they could.
I hope they had fun. I was just enjoying the luxury of staying in on a snow day too much.
But today, there was no question about waves. Well, the question early was whether they were too big for me. Probably; but by noon they were a little smaller.
They were still a little above my comfort level. As usual when that happens, I hung back too far, anticipating one of the big sets hitting me if I didn't; but the result was I kept just missing waves. And there were long lulls between sets which made getting out easier but also meant I got cold much quicker than I would've if I'd had more sets to paddle for. After hanging up on top of a couple of waves I finally did what I thought I couldn't do: took off later than I felt comfortable with on a bigger wave than usual. I made it. So late wasn't late at all, I just thought it would be.
Having learned that lesson, I was ready to go in before I froze to death. I felt a little like a wimp for getting out after only an hour, but the guy who was going in when I did was going out at the same time, so we were both wimps.
I coulda stayed out until my fingers hurt more...nah.
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