After the popup

Just a quick note (I'm exhausted, and fought a head cold to go out surfing today, but glad I did) to say I'm getting my p…

A little help

Let us pause for a moment to commemorate my 5th anniversary of surfing (or at least surf-related behavior): July 3rd. It happened…

Not transferable

Yesterday and today I was forced to realize that my hard-won skills are not transferable to waves over three feet. For the first …

Surfing and music

I know what you're thinking. What's with the long silence? Did I regress again and become too discouraged to post? First,…

What it's all been for

What it's all been for, five years of struggle: this day. One perfect day when it all comes together: Catching waves; popping…

Flat. Not.

I wasn't even going to check the waves today because Surfline called it flat, except that so many days that Surfline called f…

First weekend of summer

The craziness has begun; it's the first weekend here that's really felt like summer. And I mean summer: 95 degrees and su…

Ditto

Another day like yesterday.

On a roll

The heavens are aligned in my favor. For the past few days, I can do no wrong---everything is golden. Sometimes, not too often, t…

Re-Entry

I'm back in New York, kind of discombobulated, but re-entry was smooth. Even the drive back was pleasant, 85 mph on the Jerse…

The same ocean twice

They say you never step into the same ocean twice. But apparently you can, at least once. This morning I miraculously got a wirel…

NSSSS

Back at the Not So Secret Southern Spot: Virginia Beach. As before, too many people, too little waves. But hey, it’s my first tim…