Re-Entry

I'm back in New York, kind of discombobulated, but re-entry was smooth. Even the drive back was pleasant, 85 mph on the Jerse…

The same ocean twice

They say you never step into the same ocean twice. But apparently you can, at least once. This morning I miraculously got a wirel…

NSSSS

Back at the Not So Secret Southern Spot: Virginia Beach. As before, too many people, too little waves. But hey, it’s my first tim…

No waves at SSS

Tank of gas: $40 Groceries and supplies at Walmart: $80 Not spending Memorial Day weekend at the same old spot: Priceless. I'…

The F-Word

Yes, I'm going to use the F-word, which I don't use often, or lightly. Today was fun. I got up and riding on my first wav…

Testosterone sea

Yesterday the waves were head high. It was the kind of day good surfers live for. If they weren't in the water, they were at …

Surf critic

(Note: this is the one and only post where events did not actually happen on the date of the post. I've forgotten what day th…

Snaking

Today I headed for the same spot where I was alone for a while last time. But I wasn't alone for too long. Soon a guy came ou…

Zen and the art of surfing

Forgive me for going a bit spacey and zen on you this post. It's been an unusually good day. I bought a columbine. I turned i…

Surf haiku

Over by the rocks Wave hogs get ride after ride Leaving us no scraps. I too have a dream One day we will surf in peace Sharing al…

One good ride

Here is why you should always go in after you get one good ride: Because you will spend the next 20 minutes trying to get out aga…

Four foot day

I've been going out in bigger waves lately, I guess. I really don't do any better or worse on them, so what the hell. Tod…