Real redemption

Against all odds, it happened today. I was able to get some rides and actually have fun. I made most of the waves I went for (tho…

Struggling

Looked out the window. Saw waves. No brainwork was necessary: go surfing. There should have been brainwork. The guy I saw out the…

My blogosphere

Today I got some more evidence that people around here are reading, or at least aware of, this blog. I don't think they'r…

Thanksgiving swell

Thanksgiving and the day before brought bigger waves than we've seen in a long long time. Both days some, not all, waves were…