A good day

I had to sit out the head-high+ waves we've had (reportedly---I wasn't around) this past weekend, but today was manageabl…

Best wave ever

My first day back in New York, and I had no plans to surf. Surfline called it flat. (Regular readers should know by now that when…

Grandma and Grandpa go surfing

So I’m down at my sweet Secret Southern Spot (SSS) just getting a cop of coffee at MacDonald’s before heading into the ocean on a…

Smiles all around

And that's just how it was today. This holiday Monday was pretty crowded with people hungry for waves, especially since the …

And the #1 reason to surf when you "can't"...

Is because you'll get out of practice. I felt it today. I had to go out, I couldn't stand it anymore. Though the waves we…

The risks and benefits of not surfing when there are good waves

No, I haven't been surfing. I have a final final FINAL (no, really) deadline to meet on my book and I pride myself on never m…