After the popup

Just a quick note (I'm exhausted, and fought a head cold to go out surfing today, but glad I did) to say I'm getting my p…

A little help

Let us pause for a moment to commemorate my 5th anniversary of surfing (or at least surf-related behavior): July 3rd. It happened…

Not transferable

Yesterday and today I was forced to realize that my hard-won skills are not transferable to waves over three feet. For the first …