Re-Entry
I'm back in New York, kind of discombobulated, but re-entry was smooth. Even the drive back was pleasant, 85 mph on the Jerse…
The same ocean twice
They say you never step into the same ocean twice. But apparently you can, at least once. This morning I miraculously got a wirel…
NSSSS
Back at the Not So Secret Southern Spot: Virginia Beach. As before, too many people, too little waves. But hey, it’s my first tim…
No waves at SSS
Tank of gas: $40 Groceries and supplies at Walmart: $80 Not spending Memorial Day weekend at the same old spot: Priceless. I'…
The F-Word
Yes, I'm going to use the F-word, which I don't use often, or lightly. Today was fun. I got up and riding on my first wav…
Testosterone sea
Yesterday the waves were head high. It was the kind of day good surfers live for. If they weren't in the water, they were at …
Surf critic
(Note: this is the one and only post where events did not actually happen on the date of the post. I've forgotten what day th…
Snaking
Today I headed for the same spot where I was alone for a while last time. But I wasn't alone for too long. Soon a guy came ou…
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