The Ledge

OK. Here goes. I need some help from you surfers. I have tried to ask this question to a few locals, but didn't get through. …

One perfect ride

Sometimes I can just will myself to do it right. Today, in waves that were a good size for me, I wasn't getting anywhere but …

Boring.

My prediction came true. I am on a surf roll again. Today I actually woke up excited because there were going to be waves. They w…

Chill(y) Sunday

And it happened as I decreed; there were good little waves late today. And even though the forecast said Flat, Lordy did the news…

Out of nowhere

Just before dark, it got really perfect. This was totally unexpected. Little waves came out of nowhere around two p.m. I went to …

Ass Kicked by One Foot Waves; Humiliated by Tabloid Photographer

I thought I was through having days like today. All I can say is: Goddammit! goddammit. When if ever am I going to be through? It…

Turning

Now that I'm mostly getting up, there is a whole new challenge: what to do when I'm up. Today I had a couple of perfect r…

Gloves off

Imagine this surfing scenario. You are riding an heavy old longboard without a leash at a crowded break. You lose control of your…

Good Saturday

Today was a bigger, better day than we've seen in some time, and it was sunny and warm and Saturday, and of course that means…

Run in with the mob

Wow, the waves were bigger today---up to two feet! I got my ass up early, only to confront a sight I don't see very often: hi…

New Years Resolution

How do I know I'm surfing better? There are impressions on the wax of my board of the pattern on the bottoms of my boots---my…