Surf marathon

Today was my sixth day of surfing in a row! For a year that was notably lacking in waves, that is a record. And I am doing so muc…

Real redemption

Against all odds, it happened today. I was able to get some rides and actually have fun. I made most of the waves I went for (tho…

Struggling

Looked out the window. Saw waves. No brainwork was necessary: go surfing. There should have been brainwork. The guy I saw out the…