Dreads to grins

Waves always come when you're not expecting them. The good thing is that one look out my window first thing in the morning al…

"Surfing"

My first potential surf day back home, and the waves were nice in the morning: small, but good and lots of people out. The first …

Summer in October

Today was at least 85 degrees and sunny, a perfect summer beach day in October! As predicted, the waves were small and good. And …

Score at SSS

After almost three weeks out of the water, I can still surf! Today, for the first time, I actually surfed my adopted southern sur…