First fall session

I hate to say it, because I live for summer, but it's begun to feel more like fall already. The air is different, the light i…

The photographic evidence

Today I saw the photos one of the guys took of me trying to surf. I had thought I was having a good day and doing well that day. …

Taking the brakes off

Since that last fun day, much surfing has been obligatory. That is, going out not because the waves are fun or even particularly …