Surprise session

Never listen to Surfline. They said flat, and I planned a flat day, cleaning my apartment. Then I saw people heading to the beach…

Dancing

I will not tell you the name of the gospel song which was playing in my head today. Beautiful as it is, no one's ever heard o…

No popup

The good (three foot) waves continue. I got some rides today and thought I was doing well. I mean, I'm on a board I don't…

Back to the Blue

I'm so glad now that I didn't sell my old board, my 8-6 Blue. Any money I would have made is irrelevant compared to the o…

Smashed!

No, not me, thank god. I didn't get a scratch on me. It's my board. My nearly brand new Robert August hideously expensive…

Rain session

Today was the first time I've ever (intentionally) gone surfing in the rain. I was up early hoping for good waves, which ther…

Charging

Did you ever have a session so good the feeling from it lasted all day? Well, yeah, you probably have cause if you're readin…

And now, the popup

I surfed today, yesterday, the day before, and I'm going to composite them because they were all similar...all great . I caug…

Turnaround session

I slept in today---heard it was good in the morning, but missed that and ran right into high tide by the time I was up. So I deci…